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   Cruise Travel - Sea Stories

Welcome to Sea Stories, a new feature on this site where readers share stories of their past voyages to places near and far.

Some of these stories first appeard as posts on Cruise Talk, our online discussion forum. Contact us if you are interested in contributing a tale to Sea Stories.


Sea Rail Stories  

Dover Harbor - Cambodge Opts for First-Class Travel
Author: Robert Ryan

"First on the Queen" is no longer an option. (Cunard's matching of rooms and dining is not the same.) But, it is possible to travel "First" in the USA and Canada. And by Pullman, at that! So, on April 24, 2005, with a guest, I did just that. The Pullman was the "Dover Harbor," the only survivor of a fleet of hundreds of similar cars, which offered first class and sleeping car service throughout the United States and Canada for more than a Century. Built in 1923, it is an 83-ton "heavyweight Pullman sleeper lounge car,"one year older than am I.

The total collective age of the components of this photo is 162 years!

The Dover Harbor is the pride and joy of the Washington, DC Chapter of the National Railway Historical Society. On April 15th and 17th and again on the 23d and 24th, it ran round-trip excursions to Newport News, Virginia. Four white-jacketed attendants, all volunteer members of the Society, cosseted the 22 passengers. No paid professionals could have done a more efficient and dedicated job.

The car was attached to Amtrak #67, an overnight train from Boston to Newport News, Virginia (near Norfolk). No. 67 pulled in a few minutes late to Washington, DC and the DH was quickly coupled on. We departed at the civilized hour of 0730. Coffee was immediately poured, and a constantly refilled plate of tasty pastries was made available to the 22 Passengers. The car seats 12 for meals, requiring two seatings.This is not a problem. The 'second sitting" relaxed in comfortable lounge chairs supplemented by The Sunday "Washington Post" and the "New York Times," nibbling delicious pastries with their coffees.

Coffee, pastries and pre-breakfast newspapers

The train sped south through the Virginia countryside, past the US Marine Base at Quantico, through Fredericksburg, and on to Richmond. The passengers enjoyed a breakfast of a variety of juices and fresh fruits, followed by scrambled eggs, prepared individually in the tiny kitchen in the center of the car.

"Looking "aft" toward the kitchen

The kitchen, with two of the attendants, can be seen during a rare "lull" in their constant service to their passengers. Still further "aft," behind the kitchen, are six classic Pullman bedrooms, with upper and lower berths, with wash-stand and toilet. On overnight trips, ten passengers may be accommodated, with the crew using the sixth bedroom. As this was a day trip, the bedrooms were not used, but were visited in wonder by those passengers who had never traveled overnight by Pullman. To me, they were familiar elements of my rail-travel past.

Cozy but comfortable. Note: The lower berth is not made up - Photo Courtesy DC Chapter, NRHS

The Dover Harbor's 1930's interior was developed by more than two decades of painstaking effort by the Chapter. Lamps, curtains, windows, and other fittings were ordered from original suppliers if possible. Detailed reproductions, particularly in the duplication of the original Pullman china, filled the authentication gap. Few corporate jets (Air Force One, excepted) have as much strolling space! The Dover Harbor operates lower and slower, however.

Looking toward the head end

Although the Dover Harbor retains its 1930's appearance and authenticity, inside and out, it has been significantly mechanically upgraded. Roller bearings have been fitted to its three-axle trucks (bogies). The new bearings and wheels permit 110 mph track speeds on Amtrak's "Northeast Corridor" between Washington and Boston, and operations on non-Amtrak routes anywhere in the USA and Canada. Special electrical lines permit power to be furnished either by the locomotive or by an onboard generator. Retention toilets have replaced the "passengers will please refrain" facilities of the past. But authenticity prevails, and the Dover Harbor is fit to enter service tomorrow if it were to called to run on its 1966 role on "the Montrealer," between Washington, D.C. and Montreal, Canada. The car carries the flag as the only survivor of the fleet of the mighty six-axle, 89-foot heavyweight Pullman sleeper-lounge cars of the 1930's.

We had approximately a five-hour layover in Williamsburg, Virginia, the former Colonial Capital of "us Colonies." There seem to be as many British flags on display as at the Tower of London! My guest and I had a superb brunch at the Williamsburg Inn, strictly a high-class establishment, neckties, white tablecloths, and music. And yes, true to my Statendam past, the trio serenading the diners played "Take Five" at my request!

Other passengers fanned out and visited the shops of many vendors of colonial soaps, tri-cornered hats, herbs, art objects, pottery, glassware and the like. Five hours on cobblestoned and dirt streets can make a significant impression on the feet, and the chairs in the well-appointed waiting room at the station were most welcome. Right on the dot, Train 66 (the same train, actually, now northbound) rolled in from being "Wyed" at Newport News and we strolled aboard. Remember, only 22 passengers! No competition for seats. But we were not so leisurely so as to delay the train!

The train at Williamsburg

Drinks were served as we boarded. I forwent my usual martini for a bloody mary. The servers kept a supply of all sorts of dips, nibbles, and associated goodies on hand, as we rolled over the creeks and swamps of tidewater Virginia. A light but pleasant dinner followed. As we sped northward, I declined after-dinner brandies, as I would be getting into my car all-too-soon it seemed.

Next to the original and functioning air line gauges, and in the company of some classic Pullman fittings, a GPS system informed us that we were going 74.4 MPH at the time I took this photo. This service replaced the previous requirements for passengers to step out on the vestibules and point their portable GPS units skyward.

High tech meets the 1930's

We arrived in Union Station, Washington DC, "on the advertised" as the railroaders say. It was a great trip. If anyone wants more information about riding the Dover Harbor, I shall be glad to furnish same.

These are the guys who make it happen

First Class all the way!

Contact Bob

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