"Silver Shadow" still there. Three ships would have been chaos in NYC. Here courteous officers handled passengers, shuttles, cabs, private vehicles with aplomb. Wheeled my inevitable black suitcases across the street and onto the pier. Had to surrender them to longshorepersons, who would schelp them to the point where HAL people would pick them up. For a 20-buck tip to the heirs of Harry Bridges, I got a 1-cent candy cane in return.'Twas the Christmas season, you know.

Embarkation smooth and well organized, best I had encountered. Boarded without hassle. Boarded via gangway to A deck, my cabin 580 on A deck-port easily accessible.

Atrium decorated to maximum Christmas theme, and then some. Santa, reindeer, gigantic faux Christmas packages, mucho Poinsettias all about. Entire HAL staff, male and female wearing those silly Santa Hats. Did not see Captain at this time, but doubt if he would be wearing same.

Atrium

Great atmosphere of cheer and smiles from all hands. Christmas trees in bars, along companionways (wherever there was room), and in every corner. Wreaths over every cabin door.

Cabin Door

"No Happy Holidays" nonsense...it was "Merry Christmas," bi-god..take it or leave it!

Filipino Cabin Steward had the "cover sheets" over the bed for the luggage, and I unpacked with alacrity. This was to be my home for two+ weeks, so, paying single supplement, I used every blessed hangar and almost all the drawers.

Embarkation at dusk. Sought out the Ocean Bar. Martini, 7+ bucks, and not as good as mine. Don't like drinking alone, departed.

Rotterdam dining room upper 8 PM sitting. What's the maitre d' to do with a single? Plonk him down with others. A good group, but generated no entries for my Christmas card list. I won't go down the inventory, but if was a far different group from those with whom Nancy and I had dined in the past. But we all were compatible and got along.

Excellent caroling by showstaff and others in Atrium. Excellent voices, and evidence of a professional choir at work. everything appropriately Christmassy.

Statendam a good and comfortably sized ship. Walk from the dining room, far-aft to Van Gogh lounge, way-forward, just about right. On a longer ship it would be a hassle. Casino now filled with glassy-eyed slot pullers...they might as well be in Dover, Delaware.

Food good, tending toward excellent at times, but never outstanding. The meat courses were often disappointing, steaks were tough and chewy. I went more for poultry and seafood, and these were fair to good. They were still big on the "nouvelle cuisine" bit of several years ago of dribbling sauces in patterns on plates containing small portions. I have not observed that shoreside in recent years.

Many opted for Lido. Had several meals there, good, no question about it. But when I am breaking the bankbook to be served my meals in the opulence I expect, I want to sit in a chair and be served, and not partake in a cafeteria line, even if my tray is carried. However, the Rotterdam Dining Room was only open one hour for breakfast and one for lunch. Sometimes it was not possible to synchronize. They wanted people to go to the Lido, I expect.

Funny thing about ship's dining rooms. In the great ships of olden days, dining rooms were (a) amidships, (b) on lower decks, and (c) generally windowless. This was to (a)(b) minimize the effects of ship's motion, and (c) not to let the diners connect with a rapidly changing horizon. The intent was to minimize those factors that would induce mal-de-mer. Now on Statendam, the Rotterdam dining room is 12 stories (decks) up; as far aft as possible; and with panoramic windows on all sides! Their faith in stabilizers is touching! But, I assume, is justified.

Checked out the internet café. A significant rip-off in my opinion. The user prices, on a per-hour basis made NYC taxis appear cheap. Come on now, HAL. Internet-access is almost like serving water with meals. It is expected. Sure, charge a minor tab for the satellite service when one is online, but come on now, recognize the facts.

And also a rap on the HAL knuckles for the prices charged for the cokes and sodas in the cabins. Even the bottled water. If Mr. Marriott can spring for these in my room, HAL should be able to as well. Ok, charge for the booze in the minibars in the suites, but don't take it out on us common folks who are content with sody water. I managed to get along without them.

And, while I am being critical. The photo people should recognize the digital age and offer such services as printing pax's digital photos, making postcards of them and such. Not free, of course, but the days of film are numbered. ask EKC.

But the mini-starbucks coffee café is a good thing...and free cappuccinos too.

Seas calm to moderate for most of westbound voyage. Mostly cloudy, not really warm enough for swimming pool. Saw very little pool use except for the inevitable kids jumping in. Senior citizens, who were legion, eased into the jacuzzis, if these were in fact what they were. But the pool area was, in general, not an area of fun and frivolity. Magrodome, if that is what it was, was generally only opened a small amount.

At age 80, there were times when I felt I was, at least, among the younger quartile of the passenger list. The number of walkers, wheelchairs, and scooters was staggering. I wondered if the recent writings on "retirement at sea," had taken hold. Only a few younger couples or families observed. One woman, however pushed a double-wide twin stroller. When she traversed one of the companionways and encountered a wheelchair, there had to be some significant backing and filling. But I admire those who are traveling even though mobility impaired, and while I hope I do not reach that state, am glad to see that the option exists. But so many, all in one place, takes one aback a bit. Gridlock frequently ensued. The waiters in the Rotterdam Dining Room had to establish a pre-surveyed route for the "vehicles" which had to be maneuvered through the room each night. At times, I believe there was a scooter drag race involved, as there seemed to be much cheering.

Christmas program good, excellent singing by crew and cast.

In the Ocean Bar, while listening to the excellent Filipino combo, I regaled acquaintances with stories of Filipino musical groups, usually trios or combos, who played in the hotels, better bars, and Officer's Clubs during the Vietnam War in Bangkok, and even Saigon. They were universally good, and some were excellent. One of their signature pieces was Dave Brubek's classic "Take Five." For those who do not know the piece, it is a musical tour de force of competing tempos and instruments, calling on significant skills, particularly by drum, piano, and saxophone. The musicians loved to play it.......and they were good.

The set ended and the leader announced, "We have just had a request for ‘Take Five.' I did'nt ask, so his ability to monitor our sideline conversations in the midst of doing his musical thing was quite remarkable. "Take Five" is not a danceable piece, and there were those on the floor who stood there, looking bewildered, as the signature slow drum "dah didi didit.. dah dit" began, with ear-to-ear smiles emerging on the part of the musicians. The sax swung in at the appropriate point, then alternating with the piano, produced a long, really virtuoso, version. Each time it was working toward the end, the drum picked up the beat again, and around we went for another cycle. The musicians were grinning ear to ear, and were having a ball...it is a real "player's piece."

The applause was significant, and, after a break, they went back to "the usual."

Dec 26: Hilo rainy. Planned chopper trip over volcano cancelled. Bah. Ship at uninspired terminal, open to the weather. Long walk in rain thru security, then a follow-the-yellow brick road, security y'know, and tramp to the Matson terminal (covered) in which shuttles were running to town. Pacific tsunami having just occurred, I tried for Hilo Tsunami museum. Walk in rain through closed stores. Closed. Bah again. Took shuttle back to pier. Observed many boarding shuttle to Wal-Mart. Wal-Mart? Yes Wal-Mart. People came 4-5000 miles to go to a Wal-Mart??

I, being of higher standards and discretion, took shuttle to "Hilo Hattie's!" Hilo Hattie? Yes, a well stocked store with quality Hawaiian shirts and clothes...actually made in Hawaii, not the Dominican Republic or somewhere. Stocked up with gifts, to stow in cabin for rest of voyage. Acquired many Macadamia nuts, as one size fits all. Still raining.

Note: Wearing rain-jacket acquired in Bergen for 1960 Hurtigrute trip!

Do I really look like that? Well, the camera lieth not.

Pilot made skillful use of thrusters as he slalomed out of port through impossibly marked channel buoys. Indonesian Crew show tonight. Very good. Got passenger kids to join in playing gamelung (Indonesian bamboo percussion instruments.) Song sounded familiar. Oh yes, it was Sinatra's "My Way," an old Indonesian favorite. Finished up with gamelung version of "God Bless America," another old Indonesian ditty.

Re: Tsunami: Ship placed a collection box on the Front Office desk for Indonesian tsunami relief, and announced that an HAL contribution was being made

Much heavy rain at Honolulu. Pearl Harbor excursion involved long lines waiting in rain.

Line of people waiting for Arizona Memorial

Arizona memorial superbly done, with excellent introductory film in Imax format. No one, friend or former foe, would have had the slightest doubt of why we were there. Except one "conspiracy theorist" who claimed that "Roosevelt knew all along and brought this on deliberately." I also found he believed in "that there were weapons of mass destruction in Iraq," and was eager to prove his case. Avoided him for rest of voyage. An aside, by a ratio of at least ten to one, most passengers felt the US was on the wrong track in Iraq. Given the evidence of big-bucks tourists aboard, I would have suspected GWB would have had a greater following.

Clambered over the USS Missouri as well. Habits die hard, as I went up the gangway I automatically turned aft and saluted, as one does boarding any commissioned naval vessel.

Gangway to board USS Missouri

A view of "Arizona" from "Missouri," during one of the few breaks in the weather

Me occupying the John Wayne chair, on the Missouri

Statendam given a lesser berth in Honolulu, in a "free trade area" across from an uninspiring batch of restaurants in a mall. Shuttles required to reach other sites. Yes, Wal-mart and Hilo Hatties!

Always dreamed of sailing from Honolulu and the Aloha tower on the Lurline, flowers, ribbons, leis thrown into the water, the whole sentimental works. Instead we sort of "snuck out." This was somewhat less than dreams are made of. And, in a ceremony which I did not attend, our orchid leis, which were issued to all hands as we entered Hawaiian waters, were formally tossed ......are you ready for this?.....into the Lido swimming pool!!. Boy that's a tear-jerker if ever I heard of one, and was as phony as a three-dollar bill.

Great weather at Kauai, and was able to take spectacular helicopter trip over the Na Pali coast and interior of the island. Incredible place.

Na Pali coast

Ship made planned detour after sailing, to cover the same area until sunset

Na Pali coast

Next stop Mauai, and a bus ride 10,000 feet up to the Haleakala crater. Spectacular geology. Volcano dormant, but not extinct. Well above the clouds.

Haleakala crater

Had a chance to chat in Japanese with a Japanese tour group in comparing it to some volcanoes in Japan. Guess my Nippongo is still operable, as we seemed to mutually understand each other.

Much interest in the bike rides down the mountain. A van and trailer hauls a bunch of cyclists to the top so that they may zoom some 36 miles down the mountain. Chaperoned and escorted to keep the nuts under control. They seemed to be having fun...well...keeps them off the streets, so to speak.

Bike Riders at Haleakala Crater

Back to the Big Island and the Kona Coast. Tendered here. Statendam held position with thrusters, rather than using the anchor. A significant chop. Kept the tendering on the lee side of the ship, but had to switch from Starboard to Port in a wind shift. Much confusion.

Hoped to get the next helicopter trip, since I was weathered out of my previous flight. No, fully booked. Settled for a tamer and cheaper glass-bottom boat tour. Excellent. No oysters though, Hawaii obviously a deprived region of the sea.

Had a bit of fun with the video camera, photographing the tourist activity on shore. There was the inevitable, sort of spaced-out group plunking away on their ukuleles singing about "going to a lookie-Lau." Now I have heard that song since the late Pleistocene, and still do not know what a "lookie-lau" is! Possibly something obscene?

Anyhow, avoiding the blandishments of the opportunity to go to a "lookie-lau", tourists piled on to the....yes...Wal-Mart Shuttle! And the K-Mart Shuttle, and, of course, another shuttle to yet another Hilo Hatties! Kids played in the surf, at the end of the pier, and everything was very prototypical Hawaiian.

Statendam at Kona Pier

And...ignoring all of this was a guy who stayed on his cell phone for at least 45 minutes. "yes I'll get the specs to you, and tell Fred to......etc etc."

A word on tendering. They should load up and move out as soon as they have an appreciable load. Waiting for a full passenger load, while the tender is doing appreciable "bobbing" amid heavy diesel fumes does not lead to happy passengers....some were looking a bit green. This could have been avoided.

Another slalom through the channel markers out of port, and a cruise at dusk to the northeast to the point where Kilauea's lava met the sea. No active flow at this time, but plenty of red glowing rocks. And very windy! Probably initiated the cough I am still carrying! And the photos were pretty much a bust.

Set course seven zero for Ensenada which did not change for the next four days. Seas calm to moderate, outside temperature in the hi-60s. Continued to work on development of my incipient head-cold by logging far-too-much, much-too-breezy deck-chair time.

HAL summoned the faithful in a Sunday Brunch for their "Mariners." Found that more than two thirds of pax were repeaters. God, it was like being in a southern revival meeting! I just slid over the eligibility edge, when our 10-day trans-Atlantic crossing on Maasdam in 1964 was added to the current 15-day cruise. Awards went up to those who had logged 500 days on HAL. 500-days! Just think of it! That's almost two years! New Bedford whaling captains were not away that long! One could applaud the loyalty, and at the same time, cast a quizzical glance at the, what I will uncharitably call, "lack of imagination," of such cruisers who, presumably never tried anything else! Nancy and I were of a more inquisitorial nature, and would want to examine other venues, just to see what is out there. But there is talk of 900 and 1000 day awards in the future...........Kee+rist! By that time, crackers and milk will be the main culinary theme in the Rotterdam Dining Room......but I am being unfair and harsh, I suspect. Go to it....fellow geriatrics!! But include me out.

Westbound, smooth waters. Filipino Crew show. Excellent.

Filipino Crew Show

Enjoyed the lovely Lea (Princess Leah, we called her), server from the Crow's nest, as she participated in the native dances.

Did not attend many shows, but those that I saw were generally good. Comedians had to strain for laughs, and veered into blue areas, a standard gambit, to try to keep them coming. Performance group excellent, and their rapid-fire scene changes in the production numbers were professional and absolutely first class. Van Gogh lounge an excellent venue for shows, complete with balcony.

Ships' officers gave talks with videos of Bridge, Engine Room, and Environmental Control systems. Engine room talk weakest, and least organized. Needed schematics to clarify what did what. Capt did a good "virtual bridge tour."

Next-to-last night out, quite rough, as ship caught the tail end of the series of California storms. Rotterdam D/R scene of significant dynamics, but servers managed to carry out the traditional "flaming baked Alaska" parade in style.

I feel sorry for the little guy who is at the dining room door offering after-dinner mints. I always turned him down.

I wonder, on HAL's Alaskan cruises, do they serve "flaming baked Hawa," no forget it.

Last meal aboard was held at the extra-charge" Pinnacle." A disappointment. Service was spotty and inaccurate, some diners got wrong portions, others never did get what they ordered. Steaks were fair but not worth the "fare,"compared to "steak houses" in which I have eaten. Pinnacle open for lunch, but saw few customers.

Disembarkation carried out smoothly and efficiently.

Further deponent sayeth not.

Boutique at Kona

Hula Dancer in Rotterdam Dining Room

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