Norwegian Coastal Voyage

MS Polarlys

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Operator:TFDS, Tromsø, marketed by Norwegian Coastal Voyage
Year Built / Last Refurbished: 1996 /1998
Length / Tonnage: 404 / 7,500
Number of Cabins / Passengers: 232 / 464
Officers / Crew: Norwegian / Norwegian
Operating Area: Norwegian Coast - Bergen to the North Cape
Telephone / Fax: Tel 94 74 23 10 / Fax 94 74 23 11

Properly called "Hurtigruten"....meaning The Express Route, the Norwegian coastal voyage is one world's last remaining long haul waterborn transportation system for passenger and cargo. Nature and geology have provided Norway with a spectacular beauty, but its craggy, rocky and often isolated nature really never facilitated land links. So like most traditional steamship services, this route, worked for quite some time exclusively by motor ships, was born of need....not conceived to provide joy rides for vacationers and the curious....although it turned out conducive to just that. The Hurtigrute is coastal Norway's lifeline since 1893, when seafarer Richard With demonstrated the benefits of regular steamship services to Norway's coastal communities organizing a north south link along Norway's very long coastline

The service has run almost without interruption since its beginning, hardly stopping for war and German occupation....true, during those difficult times it slowed, and there wasn't a nightly departure to the north....but the service never totally shut down. Represented by Norwegian Coastal Voyage in the United States, it's worth pointing out to you that Norwegian Coastal Voyage, formerly the Bergenske Dampskibsellkabet AS, used to be Norway's leading steamship company....and until around 1970, owned many of the Hurtigrute boats. Norwegian Coastal Voyage was also one of the founders of Royal Viking Line. No dabbler in people pleasing, Norwegian Coastal Voyage, known in English as the B&N Line before the War, was one of the first companies to specialize in cruising in a specific region, and then branched out. No shiplover can forget the STELLA POLARIS of 1927. She was built for Norwegian Coastal Voyage, and classic beauty that she is, resides majestic and preserved as the Hotel Scandinavia in Japan.

Because of the need for daily transport of people, goods and mail over distances as short as a few miles or over 1,500 miles apart, the Hurtigrute vessels generally appeared in multiples...that is to say, there are several ships of any one type. But because of the vagaries of nature and mechanics, not all of them have aged identically, so today's fleet sees three different groups of ships.... two grand old ladies, the near sisters LOFOTEN and HARALD JARL....the so called newer generation, the MIDNATSOL, NARVIK and VESTERÅLEN (once the ugliest passenger ships ever built, and even though beneficiaries of major rebuildings in 1988, they are ships by no means lovely to look at, but they are quite comfortable inside).....and the new ships, six near sisters, instantly identifiable in the presence of their Hurtigrute sisters because they are substantially larger and so much prettier than even the grand old ladies. They are the KONG HARALD, NORDKAPP, NORDLYS, NORDNORGE, POLARLYS and RICHARD WITH. So vital are these vessels that Norway's parliament years ago chartered them as Highway Number One....and if you look closely at the superstructure of any of them, right near the bridge wing, you will see a little painted rectangle with the number one in it....the equivalent of the sign post for the highway.

Not only is the Hurtigrute Highway Number One, it's something of a Norwegian phenomenon and national treasure, for it seems at times that all Norway meets on board these boats...and yes, the Norwegians call these vessels boats....and you can too. Just make sure to call and make your reservation, because the Hurtigrute is the prettiest trip in the world...don't miss it.

No words do justice to define or describe the Norwegian coast, and no trip you may have taken before can prepare you for the visual beauties you will encounter along the way. Physically, the Alaskan coast line comes close....but the architecture and style of Norway is so different that comparisons between the two don't really stand. They're both marvelous, but I give Norway the edge, and this voyage is the only way to really see it. And talk about convenience!!!! Every day of the year, one of these coastal ships departs Bergen for the north.....and if you are lucky enough to have the time to take the full twelve day round trip, you will have sailed about 2,500 miles through some of the world's most scenic areas.

Here are a couple of notes we usually needn't tell you about when writing of regular cruise ships: Remember that these ships' electricity operates on a 220 volt system....you'll need to bring an adapter plug if you want to use small appliances. There is a laundromat on each ship....and you can buy tokens from the reception desk to operate the machines. There is no doctor or hospital on board.....the ship is never far enough from port to require one.

If you have exhausted attempts to make your reservations through your travel agent, and you are forced to contact the New York office of Norwegian Coastal Voyage yourself, don't expect them to welcome your requests for anything, because they don't....they are the least consumer friendly group I have yet met in all my years in the cruise business. Don't expect them to welcome your call....your quest for information is an intrusion to them, and they have no qualms about making you feel it. I don't call it Nordic stodginess....I just call it rude! But persevere......Norwegian Coastal Voyage, after all, doesn't own these ships....they are but a representative. Here's a tip for you....if they are as mean to you as they have been to me, don't bother to talk with them. Call the Norwegian State Railway in London, or the companies who own the ships in Norway....they're easy enough to find.

These newest Hurtigrute ships were designed with versatility in mind. Their owners had studied the latest trends in overnight ferry boat and cruise ship design....and it was decided that should their popularity on the coastal run dwindle, they could be easily converted into cruise ship use. Their accommodations and decor is a radical advance on anything that had come to these parts before. They have incorporated the design elements of modern cruise ships, but they do it on a scale so human that these ships manage an intimacy impossible in the hundred thousand plus gross ton monsters now becoming common. Each new Hurtigrute is beautiful in her own right, offering features heretofore unknown on the coastal route....like a sauna, gym and self service laundry. These are beautiful ships, inside and out, and besides there comfortable cabins, have a wide range of public rooms. My favorite is the Panorama Lounge, with sloping floor to ceiling windows and a decor very reminiscent of the decor in the Vista Lounge on the CRYSTAL HARMONY. Nearby, there is another lounge up top and forward on Lounge Deck, there's a lounge, a library, a pair of conference rooms, a cafe, an arcade and the dining room. One of the lounges features a full bar....it used to be that the Hurtigrute boats were licensed for beer and wine only, but these days, passengers may buy from a wide range of spirits as well....but ladies and gentlemen, watch your wallets....if you like to suck up the sauce, it's going to cost you a lot of money. So pay attention right now, because each ship does not leave Norwegian waters, thus all alcoholic beverages are fully taxed. And if you know anything about the tax structure in the Nordic countries, for each drink you buy for yourself, it's the equivalent of buying one for about half a dozen other people too! If you are a smoker, I hope you've brought your stash with you, because a carton of cigarettes in Norway runs about $70.00US!!!!

The food is delicious....expectedly, fish and lamb are the featured protein dishes here....and if you think you don't like these, you would be wrong. If you simply must have something else, have a look at the posted menus of the day.....if there's nothing you can eat at dinner, have a word with one of the restaurant staff....they might be able to help you. Best of all, three meals a day are included in your fare. That's not such a big deal, you say. Well, have a look at the cost of a similar spread anywhere along the ship's route...dining ashore in Norway can bankrupt you! Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at fixed times in the dining room, but take note.....on summer sailings, there can be numerous sittings....so the pace is less relaxed than what you'll find on a winter trip. Breakfasts and lunches are served buffet style....and it's a more than adequate spread. Anybody needing an edible pick me up outside the meal hours can buy drinks, sandwiches or complete meals, for that matter, in the twenty four hour cafeteria.

All the cabins on these six "new generation" ships are a vast improvement over their predecessors on vessels of just thirty years ago. Each inside and outside standard cabin is equipped with two lower berths....one is a sofa by day, the other folds into the wall.....a bathroom with shower, hair dryer and a heated floor...a writing desk, and a closet. Some of the cabins are larger than others....for extra space, book grades P, L or the inside J. Rooms on Deck 3 have a window with an unobstructed view.....some of these cabins on Deck 6 have slightly obstructed views...and the Deck 2 accommodations have portholes. Make no mistake....all these cabins, even the larger ones, are small but functional. They have all the room you'll need, but don't overpack.....there is but limited storage space, and except for a fancy evening ashore you may plan, you won't need formal clothes anyway. There are four junior suites and a pair of two room suites, all with a queen bed...these are extremely popular accommodations and must be booked months and months ahead. All the cabins have a stewardess to tidy your room and make the beds....but unlike a cruise ship, there's no "room service" here.

Because the route traveled is unquestionably the world's most beautiful voyage, people from countries all over the planet come to Norway specifically to make this journey. This is not a party cruise, though Norwegians like to have a good time. With their added amenities and public spaces, and larger passenger capacities, the newest ships.....KONG HARALD, NORDKAPP, NORDLYS, POLARLYS, RICHARD WITH and NORDNORGE....will, during certain times of the year, include a larger number of revelers among their passengers. And even among cruise passengers will be some travelers who stay up past 11pm. It's a make your own party....many of the Norwegians will be happy to include you in their festivities....but there is no organized entertainment on board any of the ships.

If you cannot travel without a tour escort at your side every step of the way, I'd recommend you steer clear of the Hurtigrute. These trips are best left to the more adventurous....the trips are by no means arduous, but you will be expected to be able to get to and from the ship on your own....and on many voyages, you will not find a coordinator on board to hold your hand. Never fear.... you won't need to be conversant in Norwegian....everyone speaks English.....so relax....enjoy the scenery and the unique ambience of the vessel.....you'll be rewarded ten fold with the images of your trip that will return to you time and time again.

All voyages begin at Bergen on the itinerary's day 1.....but keep in mind that this is a mail boat service, not a cruise per se....so you can embark and debark at any of the ports.....and the ports for day 2 are Floro, Måløy, Torvik, Ålesund, Molde, and Kristiansund. Day 3: Trondheim and Rørvik. Day 4: Brønnøysund, Sannessjøen, Nesna, Ørnes, Bodø, Stamsund and Svolvær. Day 5: Stokmarknes, Sortland, Risøyhamn, Harstad, Finnsnes, Tromsø and Skjervøy. Day 6: Øksfjord, Hammerfest, Havøysund, Honningsvåg, Kjøllefjord and Mehamn. Day 7: Berlevåg, Båtsfjord, Vardø, Vadsø and Kirkenes. WOW.....what other cruise gives you THIRTY THREE ports in a week?!!!! If you didn't get enough time to see some of your favorites.....and the port times are abbreviated.....once again, this is a vital service for Norwegians....it's not designed nor does it cater to the whimsy of the cruise passenger.....the same ports are visited in reverse order on the southbound transit from Kirkenes to Bergen...and the good news is that night calls northbound are day calls southbound. During the tourist season, when there's plenty of daylight hours, Norwegian Coastal Voyage offers a couple of shore excursions during longer port stays. In Molde, for instance, a motor trip will bring you along the Atlantic Ocean Road, stopping at a seaside restaurant for dinner...you'll rejoin the ship at Kristiansund. In Trondheim, a major Norwegian city, you can take a city tour or book a fjord and glacier excursion which will take you by small boat to the foot of Norway's second largest glacier, Svartisen. And most voyagers, having made it all the way to Honningsvåg, will feel cheated if they don't take the trip up to the North Cape plateau, the northernmost point in Europe. And some excursionists' trophy is the side trip from Kirkenes to the Russian border. If you take a full round trip twelve day Bergen to Bergen voyage, you can prebook the shore excursion package....there are seven trips available. Space permitting, you can reserve any of these trips once on board. Whether you set off on your own, or take the organized excursions, one thing is certain.....on a Hurtigrute boat, by the end of your trip you'll be a Norway enthusiast!

Unlike its tourist season, Norway lives the year round....and because so much of Norwegian life is exurban and rural, a good deal of it on far flung coastal islands... and since Norway is a country pretty much ripped asunder by geology, what had brought it together before the advent of airplane travel was the coastal express....the Hurtigrute. But even with airplanes, many of these places are too small to allow profitable air service, so residents in these communities continue to rely on the working mail boats....which is good news for all of us, because we get to take them. Don't think you need to go during the summer, when nearly twenty four hours of daylight prevail, for Norway is compelling in every season, even in the half light of the perpetual night....that lasts for sixty eight days in communities north of the Arctic Circle. It is truly an amazing country and must be seen.....this is the way to do it.

Have you enjoyed the scenery on an Alaska cruise or marveled at the pristine Chilean fjords? If so, then run, don't walk, to your travel agent and book a Norwegian coastal voyage.You've read the rest of this review....you now know these are not cruise ships.....nor are they ferry boats, exactly. During the peak season, there are usually enough passengers taking the full voyage to give you a feeling of camaraderie...though one voyage I took, I was the only twelve day traveler.....but the people who were on the ship for only a day or two were fun and interesting...and the crew and officers, while oh so hardworking, are always delighted to have round trippers like you on board. This is THE way to really see Norway's coast.... and be with Norwegians (and any number of other nationalities, too). And to travel via this ships is not roughing it....nor is it swimming in the lap of luxury.....but it IS a travel experience not to be missed!