Crystal Cruises

MV Crystal Harmony

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Operator: Crystal Cruises
Year Built / Last Refurbished: 1990 / 2000
Length / Tonnage: 791 / 49,400
Number of Cabins / Passengers: 480 / 960
Officers / Crew: Norwegian & Japanese /International
Operating Area: Worldwide
Telephone / Fax: Tel 110 3237 / Fax 110 3234

You never think of it like this, but the sneak attack on Pearl Harbor began the effective destruction of virtually all of Japan's massive merchant marine. By the time the second of two American atom bombs had wrought its devastation to Japanese city and countryside, and the Empire of Japan lay a prostrate wreck before victorious Allies, only one prewar Japanese passenger ship was still afloat. That was the HIKAWA MARU, one of three cute eleven thousand ton passenger and cargo liners built in 1930 for the Yokohama to Seattle run. Only white paint, a green line around her hull, and several big red crosses kept this baby from joining her sisters in any form of happy dispatch.

Ever since Japan surrendered to the Americans on September 2, 1945, Japanese shippers have itched to get back into the passenger business. And over the years, they did...albeit limiting themselves to migrant transport to South America and cruises for the Japanese domestic market. It wasn't enough....Japan still itched to work for the yankee dollar, and when Japan, Inc., rose ascendant in the 1980's, they did not neglect to stick a finger into the booming American cruise business. Maybe a home grown decision, or at the prodding end of a stick offered by cruise line executives thinking they could recycle their magic on Japanese coin, an organization was put together in 1990 and opened headquarters in Los Angeles on the Avenue of the Stars. Warming over all they knew from Royal Viking and Princess, this crowd got Nippon Yusen Kaisha K.K., Japan's hundred year old steamship giant, to back and found Crystal Cruises.

It didn't bother N.Y.K. that all this new line would offer would be rehashed cruise concepts. Japan has a great tradition of imitating other's inventions and products, doing a better than credible job. And at sea, it was no different. Of their prewar liners, their triple flagships on the California-Orient Line, the ASAMA MARU, CHICHIBU MARU, and TATSUTA MARU were magnificent 17,000 ton liners....heralded far and wide for the BRITISH look of their interiors! Traditional Japanese had to go searching until they happened upon "zashiki" (a traditional style Japanese room tucked away on the starboard side of their Boat Decks). Even the company's streamlined 1940/41 trio for the European service, the NITTA MARU, YAWATA MARU, and KASUGA MARU, as pretty a trio of liners as ever did slide down a ways, were nothing if not Japanese copies of contemporary German and Italian tonnage. And so it would be with Crystal. The N.Y.K. ordered a giant liner to be built in Nagasaki. Limiting her berths to 960 passengers, but not providing feeding arrangements to handle them all at one time, this concern has done quite a job in convincing an ignorant public both in the United States and in other countries that Crystal Cruises is the "ne plus ultra" of sea travel. And so was born the Crystal Harmony.

Basically, I like the Crystal Harmony......as a ship. But I have major gripes with Crystal Cruises' concept and image....all travel writers rate this ship as five or six stars....if something is going to be rated that highly, it must deliver the goods....there is NO ROOM FOR ERROR.....in any department, ship or landside...it's no different a system than school report cards....if you get an A+ on an exam, it means that exam was perfect in every way.

It's not that I wish to be negative at every turn....although it is my job to look under the rug, make note when things go wrong....as well as note when things are right...but to plagiarize the brochure and sugar coat everything would be a disservice to you. And if you are looking at Crystal Harmony, you are probably contemplating paying a large sum for a cruise...and you deserve to know what this ship is all about.

Before we begin, I reiterate my oft written disclaimer......these are the views of the editors of the Cruise section of TravelPage.com. Our views are based on the repeated sailings we have taken with Crystal. Nobody....not even us....wants to pay for a cruise, take the trip, then feel ripped off ....it's even hard to admit it if it happens. We hope that Crystal has changed for the better, and we sincerely hope that if you select Crystal Cruises for your vacation, that you will be more satisfied than we were.

I like the Crystal Harmony for her public space.....and not much else. My favorite indoor areas are the library, Vista Lounge, the Palm Court and the Avenue Saloon.

The library is one of the more well stocked for a ship....it's a popular hang out, and when open, is attended by an amiable staff member. I'm taken aback, however, by the notices regarding their security system....bar codes in the books that will create an alarm if you try to remove one from the premises without going through check out ...shoplifters will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law....!!!! Their check out procedure for video tapes is no better. It's like being in an inner city Blockbuster Video....for all the lack of trust Crystal has for their guests.

I love the Avenue Saloon....with it's bar set right in the middle of the room....and arranged for camaraderie with your fellow drinkers. At sea, it's a great place to hang out. But on one of our more port intensive cruises with the line, it seemed that Crystal relaxed their no visitors policy...at least with the crew....to the extent that rooms like the Avenue Saloon were overtaken with family and friends of those who work there....so severe was the overcrowding while in ports that we passengers could find no where to sit and be served!

The Palm Court, up on the Lido Deck is large, airy and restful....it's the place where afternoon tea is served. I know.....all the cruise lines are cutting back with food quality.....but on Crystal, it was shocking....one summer cruise on this ship we were treated to smoked salmon, thinly cut prime rib sandwiches, all manners of sweets and fruits during the tea time. The following summer, tea snacks were limited to bologna or cheese sandwiches and cookies! Nitpicker I? Well, Crystal tells us it's the little things that set them apart from the others.

My favorite observation lounge of any ship past or present is the Vista Lounge, overlooking the bows. It's one of the few places on board where the "Crystal Promise" is upheld. Ultramodern, oh so comfortable.....what a terrific space to spend the day and night. All the typical requisite facilities exist on Crystal Harmony.....night clubs, the Galaxy Show Lounge, a large gym and spa, indoor/outdoor pools (one with a swim up bar), card room, movie theater, a "sidewalk" cafe serving specialty coffees and pastries....and a casino. Not just any casino, mind you, this one is Caesar's Palace at Sea....concessioned out to THE Caesar's Palace, it's the only seagoing casino I know who gets ya before ya even sail.....your passage ticket wallet includes a credit application in order that you may establish an on board line of credit with them. That's not thoughtful.....that's tacky!

The Crystal dining experience, over all other departments, was our greatest disappointment. Never mind the fact that on every Crystal cruise we've made, our waiters were not trained....and in a couple of cases, they had "attitude"....and I don't mean the advertised "Crystal Attitude"... unacceptable in any eatery more luxe than a coffee shop.....our preserved requests for sitting, table size, and smoking or non smoking were never forwarded to the ship's maitre' d.....and the food, for the most part, while lovely to look at, was edible at best. There's a big build up reading the menu....it all sounds so tasty.....but the thick juicy steak promised never appeared....the pastas were overcooked....salads lackluster. Only one item, kouloubyaka (think of it as Russian Salmon Wellington)....is a mouthwatering memory.

So poor was the food in the main dining room on our last sailing on the HARMONY, we had a go at Prego and Kyoto, the alternative restaurants up on Lido Deck. Though we had twelve more days to go on that trip, neither restaurant could accommodate us on any night ...and they refused to try. Thinking that it's more difficult to louse up simple foods, one night we opted for cabin service....ordering cold appetizers, soup, salad and burgers. One and a half hours later, the first course arrived....along with all the others....so much for the advertised course by course dining in cabin. And of course, the cold appetizers and salad were lukewarm and the hot foods stone cold....and for this, no apology, no explanation...and for us, no more room service experiments!

Onto the lido cafe!!!! The selection is outstanding, the food, as good as any food sitting on steam tables can be.....BUT.....when the Crystal Harmony is sailing full, you can forget about getting a table here. Noting the overcrowding, Crystal wisely expanded the lido dining area on their second ship, the CRYSTAL SYMPHONY. Once in a while, Crystal will do a barbecue on a nearby deck. During our last romp with great outdoor cooking here, we should have been given oxygen masks while waiting in line......the crew forgot to roll back the glass dome over the deck, and within seconds of igniting the grills, clouds of dense smoke billowed into the hungry diner's faces.....a little A1 steak sauce to go with your bathing suit, perhaps?!!!

So! The food department isn't perfect here....cynics say it's not perfect anywhere. But Crystal would have you believe it is.....after all, you're paying for it to be.

The Japanese think of everything......almost everything. When the Crystal Harmony came into service, she, along with Germany's EUROPA and the ROYAL VIKING SUN had what I consider the best standard rooms around. But on the HARMONY, they forgot one thing....to consider the size of the average western passenger who would be sitting on the toilet....for a large person, it's a tight squeeze! Other than that, the cabins are fine.....with pseudo walk in closets, reasonable if not generous drawer space, a small sofa and sitting area, television with VCR, refrigerator, and a petite tub in the bathroom. No matter how cranky I get thinking about Crystal, I will say that the beds, pillows, and accompanying down comforters are heaven at sea! A restful night is almost a given on the Crystal Harmony.

As cruise lines begin a regression toward the two class system of yesteryear, Crystal is no exception....and they have created for suite passengers....and balconied cabins....a different world...separated from the rest by better cabin service. Butlers, originally serving only Penthouse Deck suites, are now helping out on Deck Nine. It's the butler service, and precious little else, that might allow me to consider the Crystal Harmony a five star product. If you end up in one of these cabins, you'll be pampered until you cry "no more!" As for the physical layout of these suites, they're okay....not wonderful....though the chairs and sofas are cushy comfy. Penthouse Deck digs range in size from 360 square feet with veranda to 948 square feet, also with veranda. To my eye, Crystal put in furniture that looks too large or blocky....the cabinet housing the refrigerator and bar, with the television on top, overwhelms the category A cabins. In their defense, the cabins are decorated with light neutral colors, and are well equipped.....but once again, Crystal's competition has put to sea some truly impressive accommodations during the last five years.....and with service to match.

Actually, who goes depends on where the Crystal Harmony is going....and for how long. Obviously, the world cruises cater to those with tons of time and money....portions of that trip will bring the average age down a bit. Families will help fill Alaska sailings. One common thread binding most Crystal passengers is a love for the subdued atmosphere....fewer conga lines and rum swizzle blow outs, and more classical music fans....and those who love the peaceful pleasures in life.

It's almost easier to tell you where the Crystal Harmony doesn't go! After visiting Japan and China during the first half of 2002, she will head north to Alaska for the summer season offering 12 day cruises from San Francisco. After Alaska, she she makes a number of Panama Canal transits before finishing up the year with a Mexican Riviera holiday cruise.

In January of 2003 she resumes her Panama Canal/Mexican Riviera itineraries before heading across the Pacific to Japan in March. For the next two months she will cruise to Japan, China and Hong Kong. In may she returns across the Pacific and heads back to Alaska for the 2003 summer season. After Alaska she finishes up the year on a series of Panama Canal transits.

Of all the companies offering cruises to far flung destinations, Crystal includes mostly major ports of call....only rarely will she visit an out of the way place....so her itineraries are ideal for first timers to any given part of the world.

If you're not a tried and true Crystal Cruise fanatic, be smart....comparison shop! And consider this....does the Crystal Harmony go where you want to go....what does Crystal give you (not promise you in the brochure, but actually give you)...that no other cruise line cannot? Is a Crystal cruise worth the extra price you'll pay? Will you have more space, more elbow room than on other ships? Can you be assured that ALL the crew are trained and capable of providing five star service? And if your Crystal cruise falls short of their advertising or your expectations, will the line listen to you....and offer a solution?

The food on the Crystal Harmony is all right....pretty good if you aren't too discriminating....but not close to gourmet..... the atmosphere restful, the accommodations complete if a little awkwardly arranged...and the public rooms are wonderful. The staff ranges from among the finest working at sea today to the hopelessly incompetent. As I write, this is beginning to add up to sounding an awful lot like competing cruise lines....who charge up to 50% less than Crystal! For the money, I'd rather double my vacation time with two cruises on someone else than pay the prices for a cruise here....there are a handful of sailings on the Crystal Harmony with deals to be had....Panama Canal sailings, as an example, are sometimes put on sale.....offering a per day rate equal to competitor's fares. And when this happens, Crystal may be worth trying.

You might find Crystal fits your needs perfectly...the first time I sailed with them, I did. But subsequent trips were disappointing....and serious complaints lodged with Crystal's headquarters are often unanswered. Are you willing to gamble your hard earned vacation dollar on such an inconsistent product? I'm not.