Royal Caribbean International

MV Empress of the Seas

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Operator: Royal Caribbean International
Year Built / Last Refurbished: 1990 / 2004
Length / Tonnage: 673 / 48,563
Number of Cabins / Passengers: 805 / 1,600
Officers / Crew: International / International
Operating Area: Year round Caribbean and Bermuda
Telephone / Fax: Tel 124 3540 / Fax 124 3547

The American songwriter Harold Arlen said it in a mouthful....."You've got to accentuate the positive, eliminate the negative..." Royal Caribbean International, formerly known as Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, is a true success story in the shark eat shark world of modern day cruise ship operators.

It all started with a dream of some experienced Miami shipping men and it came to reality through the hard work and unchanging visions of a second generation. It's hard to imagine when you look at ships like the Empress of the Seas and consider that her owners are expecting a pair of twins that will come in at some 80,000 TONS MORE THAN THIS 48,000 TON SHIP that it all began with 5000 rust buckets like the 1927 built EVANGELINE and YARMOUTH. Veterans of short haul coastal trades linking Boston and New York with Nova Scotia, these ships ended their careers in the three and four day market along with fellow veteran, the FLORIDA of 1930. These were the ships, with their $54.00 per person minimum fare for the three nighter (and actually, in terms of buying power, a three night Florida to Bahamas cruise is cheaper today!!!) to the Bahamas that began it all...the successful regular cruises from South Florida, which was and is a style of cruising fundamentally, though certainly not totally, different than routine cruises from New York, the west coast, or Europe. The idea of cruising from South Florida quickly began to attract increasing numbers of vacation seekers, happy to begin a cruise in warm weather and relieved to avoid sailing past often ferocious waters off Cape Hatteras.

Putting together a consortium of three Norwegian shipping companies, men like Ed Stephan got Royal Caribbean going in 1970, when they took delivery of the first of their new breed, the SONG OF NORWAY. She was followed the next year by the NORDIC PRINCE and their identical sister, SUN VIKING brought up the rear in 1972. Admittedly, the old guard, used to a wide range of public rooms, cabins of various sizes and decor, and European hotel crews, did not quickly take these ships to their bosom, and veteran cruise passengers fond of the stricter formality of another style stayed away. I still don't know anyone who liked their "ravioli sized" cabins. It's been uphill towards the Empress of the Seas ever since.....these new RCI ships are so much better than the old ships, even though the size of the cabins is still small...and since the old guard whose favorite ships are longer gone than they are, their opinion of the first trio should not stand in your way of looking at what these new ships are.....an improvement over their predecessors in every way.

She originally entered service as RCI's Nordic Empress and was given an extensive re-fit in mid- 2004. During the re-fit a new specialty restaurant, Portofino, serving Italian cuisine, was added and the Windjammer Cafi was upgraded and main dining room refurbished.

Empress of the Seas' ShipShape Fitness Center and Day Spa were expanded to two levels and now the fitness center overlooks the Viking Crown Lounge, perched at the top of the ship, offering spectacular, panoramic sea views. In addition, the ship features the Royal Caribbean's signature rock-climbing wall, installed in late 2003.

The former High Society Lounge on Deck 6 now was converted to a Latin-themed bar, Boleros, offering specialty tequilas and cocktail favorites like mojitos, as well as outstanding live entertainment. Empress of the Seas also now features the line's popular Schooner Bar, a nautical-themed lounge with sing-along piano entertainment, which replaced the mid-ship Carousel Bar on Deck 5.

The ship's casino was moved to Deck 6, and a new card room was created off the Centrum. In addition, the main theater, the Strike Up the Band Showroom, were updated with new carpet and upholstery.

Not so long ago a ship's uniqueness was best identified by the crew......notwithstanding the occasional eccentric passenger or those who stood out in the crowd, the crew brought their home countries with them....so a Greek crewed ship made you feel as if you were in an Athenian taverna, an Italian ship sent your mind off to enchanting Venice, and a French crew had you humming La Marseillaise. The Empress of the Seas has a international crew....so there is no pervading atmosphere at all. It's a modern hotel, nothing more, nothing less. So benign is the ambience that most of your fellow passengers will not remember the name of the ship within two years of taking the cruise. Decorative themes in some of the public rooms are but a weak attempt to evoke images of varying cultures or of the "good ole days".....but the results are ertzatz at best.....and are no more evocative than Hollywood movie sets or exhibits one visits at EPCOT.

Given the right cabin location, you'll sleep comfortably. If you have a choice, avoid cabins too far forward and too far aft, as they have a tendency to vibrate or waddle in a rough sea. Consider that the Empress of the Seas is very light in the water, considering her size, and a few large waves or deep swells will have her moving like a pig. Cabins just below or adjacent to public rooms with musical entertainment can be noisy.....and there's no way to turn off the music until the performers are done.

The entertainment is Las Vegas style.....and it's probable at least one of the musicians will appeal to you. Much of it is digitally enhanced, on occasion lip synced, and in some lounges just too loud....but it's professionally choreographed, it's pretty to look at, and if you're not in the mood to gamble, shop or watch a movie, it's something to do at least. But for the most part, you won't come away from it thinking "Gee, that was really special....I'll never forget it".

The food is banquet quality.....reasonably good ingredients, but prepared en masse and designed to appeal to everyman's taste.....so if excellent food is your priority, try to choose items that sit well on steam tables for hours on end.....the simpler, the better. You can still order anything you desire, and if you don't like what was served the first time around, your server will get you something else. But notwithstanding medical dietary needs, special orders may be more nuisance to you than they're worth.

In short, the Empress of the Seas will provide a comfortable, if not outstanding cruise experience.

There are plenty of places to go, but not so many intimate nooks as you'll find on other similar sized ships. The Royal Caribbean "signature" lounge, the Viking Crown, is accessible via elevator, and the views are worth the ride up. It's probably the best place to bask in solitude, at least during a sunny day when fellow passengers are "roasting on the spit" poolside. Pretty show lounges, nightclubs and bars are located on many of the decks, and all handily serve their intended purposes. Public rooms are pleasant enough that this ship really would be better suited to longer cruises.....they are spaces that ask that we linger a little longer.

Though not considered a megaship by her owners, Empress of the Seas has the "required" atrium.....I'm certain anyone who loves to frequent their local shopping mall will feel at home in this space. Anyway, it's not an area I'd be inclined to feel comfortable in during an extremely rough sea. Up on Sun Deck, there's a capable gymnasium and health spa.....prices for services there are creeping upward to an almost obscene level. There's plenty of promenade space, and sufficient....but not wonderful.....amounts of sunning areas. If you are thirsty while outside, not to worry.....Royal Caribbean's trademark of hounding you til you buy a drink is alive and well here.

Other refurbishments included general facelifts to the lobbies, elevators, landings, corridors and restrooms, and enhancements to the shopping areas and Pool Deck.

The dinner service in the two level Carmen Dining Room was leisurely, personable, and a pleasure. Though not a concern to everyone, the quality of the food has slipped......all of it was edible, but exciting it was not. The sommelier we had deftly navigated us through the wine list. The Windjammer cafe offers a limited but capable breakfast and lunch.... with stand alone circular buffet bars for hot foods, cold foods, salads and desserts, so that lines are minimal. During lunch, there's a choice of five hot entrees with a "roast du jour". .From 6:30pm to 9:30pm, the cafe offers casual dinner dining.

I'm a man who thinks that a great dinner party is one with 50 Benedictine monks who've pledged silence, so I wasn't looking forward to an RCI dining tradition....singing waiters...but I've been foiled again....because on this cruise ship, the singing works, and in fact, it's a welcome vote of good cheer to all....there were no sappy speeches coming from a lounge lizard cruise director, inviting us to drown ourselves in overactive tear ducts for our cruise had come to a close.....there weren't any cues to put our arms around our table companions and pledge eternal friendship....and blessedly, there were no insistent instructions to clap ourselves silly for waiter, busboy, pastry chef.... their parents, grandparents, and so on and so forth. And when the waiters did sing, it never disrupted the service...it was cute, quick and lots of fun.

During the 2004 re-fit guest staterooms received new and upgraded bathrooms throughout all categories. In addition, some staterooms, including the Royal Suite and Superior Ocean View staterooms, were given new decor, while others accommodating third and fourth guests were fitted with modified wardrobes offering increased storage. Empress of the Seas' Owner's Suites were completely redesigned, with new furniture and finishings.

The 13 grades of standard accommodations, inside or outside, have twin beds arranged parallel or in an L shape, bathroom with shower, TV, radio and phone. Although decoratively, they are evolved compared with older Royal Caribbean ships, size wise, they are compact. Nevertheless, you will find more than adequate storage space in them for a three or four day cruise. The minimum outside grades "M" and "N" are smaller than the others....and the others aren't that large to begin with. All inside grades are the same size, so if sunlight is unimportant to you, it's a waste of money to consider anything than the least expensive category "Q".

Category "D" is a larger outside cabin, category "C" comes with a balcony and this grade's Bridge Deck cabins, save #9684, have a sitting area. Category "A" has three kinds of owners suites, all with balcony and refrigerator. Some have two beds, others a queen. These cabins are situated with views either forward or aft. The Royal Suite has a balcony overlooking the bow, a queen size bed, walk in closet, living room with bar, refrigerator, and entertainment center, and a whirlpool tub. Some of the suites and category "C" cabins are facing aft..... providing fantastic views of the wake of the ship, but vibration might prove a problem to motion sensitive travelers.

Anyone who wants lots of action, good night life, and isn't overly concerned about the size of standard cabins....should be pleased with the Empress of the Seas. I saw all age groups, many nationalities, many income brackets....everyone seemed to have a great time. It's my opinion that whenever a ship carries this many passengers, you're bound to find pleasant company. I do offer this caveat....if your primary concern is formal service, you should consider looking elsewhere....pretension does not go over well on this ship.

Empress of the Seas offers alternating six- and eight-night Bermuda itineraries from May through October from the New York City metro area. She is the first Royal Caribbean ship to sail from Cape Liberty Cruise Port, in Bayonne, New Jersey. Located across the New York Harbor from lower Manhattan, just 15 minutes from the Newark airport and right off the New Jersey Turnpike, the new po

In late fall, Empress of the Seas repositions to San Juan, where she offers guests a choice of four Southern Caribbean adventures. The highlight is the 11-night Exotic Caribbean itinerary that takes guests to St. Maarten, St. Barts, St. Kitts, St. Lucia, Barbados, Grenada, Margarita Island, Aruba and Curacao.

Empress of the Seas also sails three-night to St. Thomas/St. Maarten and St. Kitts/St. Maarten.

I know we would have more fun on cruises if we would just toss the cruise line's brochure in the garbage, and set off without preconceived notions. But we cannot.....and as with any major purchase....an kitchen appliance, a car, braces for the kids.....when we're told that item "X" will perform in a certain way, we as consumers, should expect nothing less.

So forgive us if we sound cynical....but all cruise lines advertise that they are the best at what they do.....and they would have us believing that they are radically different from all the rest.....but they are not.....dozens and dozens of the newest ships are so similar in design, in decor, in overall flavor....that distinguishing traits are but a blur. One's about as good or bad as the next. The phenomenon of uniformity and loss of character came to the airlines a few short years ago.....much to the savvy traveler's distaste. Now it's happening at a frightening speed to the cruise lines. So as reviewers, about the only thing left for us to consider is whether the Empress of the Seas is a good deal for what she provides......and what will separate having a good time or not on the Empress of the Seas will be weather and the attitude of your fellow passengers.....and that we cannot soothsay for you.